Life in Kabul

Major Strombom and POSCS Hunter in Kabul. WN08-0048-47

by Major Simon Strombom

The International Security and Assistance Force (ISAF) Headquarters is located in central Kabul. There are three New Zealanders at the Headquarters; Colonel Ramsden is Deputy CJ5 Plans, and POSCS Nicholas Hunter and myself are in the civil affairs Liaison Team.

The civil affairs cell has over 45 staff and is commanded by a Polish General. There is a planning team, a Provincial Reconstruction team, a strategy team and a Liaison team. This unit coordinates with Afghanistan Government ministries and agencies, as well as a host of NGO’s within the region.

The New Zealand LO team has a large number of Governance Ministries to work with. These include the Ministry of Finance, the Ministry of the Economy, the Ministry of Public Works, the Ministry of the Hajj, the Ministry of Commerce, the Ministry of Border Affairs and the Independent Ministry of Local Governance. What strikes you about working with these ministries is the number of Afghan expatriates that have returned since the Taliban was ousted. Many have lived in the United States or Europe for a number of years and have returned to assist in the rebuilding of the State. They are filling an important gap given the lack of professionals in the country. The Kabul University recently had its first graduation in 28 years.

The limited number of educated professionals and public servants is apparent when dealing with many of the departments. What is also obvious is the role that women play within the ministries. As they were banned from working by the Taliban, this must have had a huge influence in the decline of good governance in the country. The main problem Afghanistan faces is a lack of a strong central government, and therefore there remains a limited overview and influence in a country where tribal affiliations and local governors have always been strong. The ministries are also trying to cope with massive development aid coming into the country. This is proving difficult to coordinate, to ensure the funding ends up where it is meant to be. The international community, particularly UNAMA has a key role to play in this respect.

Kabul is an interesting city. The evidence of the fighting remains in many places. There are large sections of the city where houses remain destroyed and buildings are still pock-marked by gunfire. Old street lights show the signs of RPG blasts and there is little street lighting  working. The centre of the city has been rebuilt yet the roads remain poor and there is very little enforcement of traffic. The main problem the city faces is the destruction of essential services; these need rebuilding.

Generators are common and there is a lack of amenities. Sewerage trucks are used to transport sewerage to dumping grounds and untreated waste causes problems in terms of disposal and effects on the population’s health. A common sight around Kabul are beggars and large numbers of amputees. It’s common to see men on the streets with no legs or with a leg missing. The effects of landmines and the various wars over the years are obvious even in the Capital.

The country also suffers from deforestation, and in our role driving around Kabul we see the brick factories pouring black, sooty smoke into the air as tires are burned to make bricks, since wood is more expensive. In the city there are areas of ‘green’, and the replanting of trees is underway, however with the war and shortages of fuel for heating, large tracts have been cut down.

The saddest sights are the many children with obvious medical problems, including being malnourished. Some have to work instead of going to school. This is hard on Kiwi soldiers, especially those who have children. We always carry a few sweets in the car for the children, yet again with this you must pick your moments; we can rarely give out treats in areas commonly travelled by ISAF troops.

There is still along way to go before the country is a safe and healthy environment for all. The security situation in the capital is forever changing, and vigilance is always required. The situation has changed in the city since ISAF first arrived, with attacks now being more frequent, yet on the positive side the Afghanistan National Security Forces’ capability and competence continues to improve and with it their ability to deal for effectively with the insurgency.

We do see change happening. It is the little things you notice. New gardens spring up on hillsides, new trees are planted, new shops have opened and the large numbers of kids at school suggests most people in this country want to get on with living a normal life.

Yet in a country that has seen both war and invasion over the centuries you can see that most accept their lot. By western standards neither their quality of life nor standard of living is high. What ISAF and the international community offer, however, is a glimmer of hope for a more peaceful and plentiful existence.